What you actually see on a Lake Como boat tour

From the water, Lake Como is a sequence of layers. First the gardens that run down to the lake: Villa Olmo, Villa Erba, Villa Pizzo. Then the villages that sit at the mountain's edge, with stone houses, bell towers and small harbours. Then the mountains themselves, rising straight up behind every town.

On a private tour you choose the rhythm. A one-hour cruise stays close to Como and Cernobbio, where the villas are packed together. A two-hour run reaches Torno and the Orrido di Nesso, the first real mountain scenery. Three hours puts you at the centre of the lake: Bellagio, Villa del Balbianello, Isola Comacina. A half-day tour can take you to Varenna and Menaggio.

The right answer to "what should I see?" depends on the time you have, the season and the light. Mornings are still and good for photographs, late afternoons turn the western shore gold, and sunset cruises give you Como lit from behind.